Senate Passes Bill to Protect Oregon Wilderness
The US Senate approved the highest possible protections today for areas surrounding Mount Hood, passing a package of Wilderness bills by a vote of 73 to 21. Senator Ron Wyden and Senator Jeff Merkley ushered in the 111th Congress by bringing home protection for two state icons, Mount Hood and the Columbia River Gorge. The Public Lands Omnibus Bill (S.22) would also protect critical wildlife habitat in the Soda Mountain Wilderness, Copper Salmon Wilderness, Spring Basin Wilderness and Badlands Wilderness. The bill now moves on to the House of Representatives where its passage is expected.
The legislation introduced today would protect 202,000 acres in Oregon as Wilderness. Currently only 3.7% of Oregon is protected as Wilderness compared to 14% in California, 11% in Washington and 7.5% in Idaho. New Wilderness designations around Mount Hood and in the Columbia Gorge would safeguard some of the region’s last old-growth forests and pristine watersheds from logging and development, while also ensuring future generations can continue to enjoy these areas through activities like hiking, camping, fishing, and boating.
Among the protected areas is Bonney Butte, home to the largest known fall concentration of migrating raptors in Oregon, and an Important Bird Area.
In addition to the Oregon provisions, the bill designates more than 2 million acres of wilderness in nine states. It also creates three new national parks, more than 1,000 miles of wild and scenic rivers (including 70 miles in Oregon), and three new national conservation areas.
For more information, visit OregonWild.org
Thursday, January 29, 2009
First Aid Advice from amazing Animal Hospital!
Greetings:
I am currently in the process of moving, leaving next Friday Feb 6th for Ashland. One more 5 hour drive a day and a half later and I'll be in my new hometown, Portland, Oregon. I cannot wait. I am so super excited and so happy about where life has recently taken me and grateful for what the universe has continually been handing me. Please be patient as I get all packed, moved, unpacked and organized, and then rested and settled; so over the next two weeks I won't be posting much, if at all - unless I come across something urgent of course! :) Until then please enjoy my archives and look forward to lots of Portland pictures of local pets and events, pet gatherings, listings on pet activities and events all over the Northwest. I have a new passion and a new focus :) Unfortunately, I won't be able to post upcoming Bay Area dates anymore because my focus will be on providing top notch pet information and advice for pet owners all over Portland as well as Seattle and other parts of Oregon that I will visit frequently, like Ashland, Bend, the Coast, etc.
Thanks! :)
Here is a great database of advice on General First Aid from DoveLewis Animal Hospital, an amazing place for emergencies, animal assisted therapy and rescue, plus a whole lot more. I will introduce OHS later ;)
Emergency Care for your animals
From the experts at DoveLewis Emergency Animal Hospital:
Medical Director Andrea Oncken, DVM, DACVECC
Critical Care Director Alicia Faggella, DVM, DACVECC
Because of the serious and sensitive nature of emergency and critical care veterinary medicine, DoveLewis Emergency Animal Hospital does not give medical diagnoses or advice over the phone or through e-mail. The health of your pet is very important to us. We believe that in order to give you and your pet the best care, we must see your animal before we can accurately give a diagnosis or advice. We are open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year for emergency and critical cases. Your regular veterinarian may be best suited for non-emergency questions or concerns. These short explanations and general advice are for information only.
Website link: http://dovelewis.org/
Abrasions:
An abrasion does not fully penetrate and only involves the outer layer of skin. Small, uninfected wounds can be attended to at home. Large, infected, or multiple abrasions should be treated by a veterinarian. Use warm water or saline to flush out the wound. Flush enough to remove all dirt and debris from the area. Keep the wound clean and dry, and discourage your pet from licking at it (you may need to pick up an Elizabethan collar from your veterinarian). Monitor the wound for increasing pain, redness, or a pus-like discharge. If any of these occur, the animal should be seen by a veterinarian.
Artificial respiration:
If your animal stops breathing, you may need to start artificial respirations.
Birth (Whelping and Queening):
Dogs and cats have gestation periods of approximately 58 to 64 days. After 45 days, you could have an x-ray taken to see how many puppies or kittens to expect. By this time the skeletal tissues have calcified enough to be seen on a radiograph. At the time of birth, the animal will usually nest and will seek an isolated, quiet and private area. Expect one pup every 45-60 minutes with 10-30 minutes of hard straining. If she is seen straining hard for over one hour or if she takes longer than a four-hour break and you know more pups or kittens are present, a veterinarian should be consulted. Cats tend to queen a little faster, although they can occasionally take up to 24 hours to birth the entire litter, especially if the queen is young or nervous. Help clean the airways of the new puppies and kittens and place them back with their mother to start nursing.
Seek veterinary attention immediately if:
* The mother appears to be in pain
* 30-60 minutes of strong contractions occur with no newborn being produced
* Greater than four hours pass between newborns and you expect more
* A fetus seems to be stuck in the birth canal
* More than 65 days of gestation (since the last breeding) have passed
* The mother passes a green-colored or foul smelling vaginal discharge
Bite wounds:
Your animal may be frightened and hurt, so approach with caution. Use a muzzle if needed. Flush out the wound with saline or warm water. Apply pressure if it there is active bleeding. A light bandage may be applied to a limb if there is extensive bleeding, but take care to not wrap the limb too tight, cutting off circulation. Any bite wound to the chest or abdomen has potential to be penetrating into the body cavity. Cover chest and abdominal wounds with a clean cloth or bandage material and have your pet seen by a veterinarian immediately. Be sure to have your pet examined if there has been any bite wound inflicted. Often what you see at the surface, such as a few small punctures or bruising, will have extensive deeper tissue damage that you cannot see. Bite wounds can become infected, so it is necessary to have your pet started on appropriate antibiotic therapy.
Bloat:
What is Bloat?
Bloat, or gastric dilatation and volvulus, is a condition in which the stomach rotates on its own axis. Once the stomach flips, the entrance and exits to the stomach become pinched off, and it becomes greatly distended with gas that has no outlet. The stomach becomes greatly dilated and painful, and circulation to the stomach and other major organs becomes severely compromised, leading to shock and eventual death.
Bloat can occur rapidly; a dog can be dead within hours of the stomach distention. Bloat is most prevalent in large breeds with deep chests and seems to occur more commonly in dogs who have a tendency to be easily agitated or nervous, and in dogs who exercise after a large meal. Any time bloat occurs, it is very serious. Symptoms include attempts at vomiting with no production (occasionally they may get up small amounts of foamy fluid); a hard, distended abdomen; and severe abdominal pain. If you observe any of these symptoms in your dog, it must be transported to a veterinarian immediately. This is a true emergency.
Broken toenail:
To stop the bleeding, you may pack the nail with styptic powder, cornstarch, or white ivory soap. You or your veterinarian may need to trim the rest of the nail off to prevent further pain or bleeding. Occasionally a nail that breaks off very close to the nail bed may create an infection in the toe that will require antibiotic treatment so watch for any limping that persists longer than two days.
Burns:
Flush the injury immediately with cool running water. Gently apply an ice pack wrapped in a soft towel to the area. Seek veterinary attention immediately.
Choking:
Check to see if your animal is choking on a foreign object. If so, be careful not to get bitten, or push the object further down the throat. If the animal can still pass some breath, it is best to take it to a veterinarian immediately, so the object can be removed under sedation with the proper instrumentation. If the animal cannot pass any air, you can try to remove or dislodge the object carefully. If possible, use a second person to hold the mouth open while the first person attempts to remove the object. Pliers or tweezers may be used to grasp the object if the animal is calm and the object is visible in the back of the throat. If the object is not visible or cannot be dislodged, you may also use quick chest compressions by standing behind the animal and balling the fists under the sternum and use gentle but firm upward thrusts to force air from the lungs to dislodge the object. Even if you are able to dislodge the object yourself, always seek veterinary care after the incident to make sure there are no complications.
CPR:
Check to see if your animal is choking on a foreign object. If so, see “Choking.” If the animal is not breathing and the airway and mouth are free of objects, lay it down on its right side. Check for a heartbeat by listening to the chest where the elbow touches the ribs. If there is no heartbeat, you can start chest compressions with the flat of your hand. If the animal is a medium-sized or large dog, kneel over the animal and place one hand over the top of the other on the center of the chest. Then compress downward, moving the chest in and out rapidly (approximately one compression per second). Alternatively, if the animal is a cat or a small dog, you can place one or both hands on either side of the chest and compress inwards. To breathe for the animal extend the neck so that there is a straight airway, close its mouth; place your mouth around its nose and mouth (or just its nose if it is a large dog) and blow air into the nose until the chest expands. Be sure to keep the neck out straight, not flexed. You should be able to see the chest expand with each breath... don't over-do forcing air into the lungs. This should be performed every 5 seconds. If chest compressions are required to stimulate heart contractions, alternate this with the breathing procedure after 10 heart compressions. Seek veterinary attention immediately. Unfortunately, this procedure, because the patient may already be dead, is extremely unsuccessful in animals.
Cuts:
Use warm water or saline to flush out the wound. Flush enough to remove all dirt and debris from the area. Apply direct pressure with a cloth or towel if the wound is bleeding. A bandage can be applied to a wound on a limb if the bleeding will not stop. Take care not to apply the bandage too tightly, cutting off circulation to the limb. Cuts should always be treated by a veterinarian to prevent infection and to assess for damage to the deeper tissues.
Diarrhea:
Your judgment regarding the health status of a pet with diarrhea is critical. A pet with diarrhea and also weakness, pain, vomiting, or agitation may be in real trouble; whereas a pet with diarrhea but few other signs of distress may sometimes be treated at home. Always inform your veterinarian about the situation and have a fecal sample checked just in case worms or other parasites such as Giardia are a factor. Withhold food only for 12-24 hours to give the intestines a rest. Water should still be given frequently but in small amounts. Call your veterinarian for advice. You may be required to bring your animal in for medical attention if it persists for more than 24-48 hours or if there are concurrent symptoms (vomiting, weakness, lethargy, appetite loss, abdominal pain, bloody diarrhea). Chronic or frequent episodes of loose stool may be a sign of Inflammatory Bowel Disease which often requires veterinary attention.
Eye injuries:
Any injury to the eye can lead to permanent scarring or blindness. You can use any commercial saline flush to clean foreign objects from the eye and to visualize the extent of the damage. If your animal is squinting, hiding its eyes from the light, has a raised third eyelid or has any blood within or around the eye, seek veterinary attention immediately. Home treatment of eye injuries is not recommended without a veterinarian's exam and recommendation. Even a simple scratch on the cornea from a thorn or cinder could lead to severe damage to the eye.
Fractures:
Your animal may be frightened and hurt, so approach with caution. Use a muzzle and look for bleeding. Apply a clean cloth or bandage material gently to bleeding areas for protection and mild pressure. Do not pull on the fractured leg. Transport your pet as quickly as possible to your veterinarian, using a board or large blanket as a stretcher. Give careful support to any fractured limbs. Simple support may be better than trying to splint a fractured limb yourself. If the limb is severely unstable, or if the fracture is open, and there is a lot of movement of the fracture site, a temporary splint can be applied. Wrap a newspaper or magazine around the limb, and tape it in place, or tape a thin board to the limb, preventing movement of the fractured edges. Immobilization of the fractured limb is the key, as any movement of the fractured bones can lead to further tissue damage and pain.
Frostbite:
Frostbite is uncommon in animals and usually affects the ear tips, paws (mostly the footpads), tail, and scrotum. Hypothermia (low body temperature less than 98*F) may accompany frostbite. Signs of frostbite may be difficult to detect on pigmented skin. Typically the affected skin is pale or bluish in color early on in frostbite (will not detect on the footpads). There is a loss of sensation to the affected areas. With time if the frostbite is severe blisters may appear or the skin may develop dark scabs and the tissue may slough off. Signs of hypothermia are related to the degree of severity and may include shivering (not if temperature below 90°F), dullness, weakness or collapse, low heart rate, pale gums, shallow or slow breathing and coma. Treatment for frostbite and hypothermia includes removing the animal from the cold and checking for low body temperature. If hypothermia is present wrap the animal in blankets. If frostbite is present apply warm, moist compresses to the affected areas. If the feet or a large area of the body have frostbite, submerge these areas in water warmed to 102 - 103°F for 10 – 15 minutes. Gently dry the areas. DO NOT RUB THE AFFECTED AREAS as this will cause more tissue damage. Do not use dry heat such as hairdryers or electric heating pads for re-warming as further damage may occur. Seek veterinary attention immediately.
Heat exhaustion/ Heatstroke:
Heat exhaustion or heatstroke (more severe form of overheating) occurs when an animal cannot keep its core body temperature within a safe range (< 106°F). Environmental (temperature, humidity, shelter, lack of water), physical (breed, age, weight, exercise), and medical (medications, pre-existing illness) factors contribute to the development of heatstroke. Pets left in warm cars for even a few minutes are at high risk of developing heatstroke. Severity of signs depends on how severely the body temperature is elevated, duration of exposure to adverse conditions, and any pre-existing conditions. Signs may include: restlessness, excessive panting, brick red gums, lethargy, weakness, wobbly gait, vomiting and diarrhea. Progression to blindness, seizures, collapse, coma and death may occur. Treatment must start immediately. Remove the animal from the heat and continuously wet down the animal thoroughly by spraying or pouring cool water over the animal. Make sure there is complete penetration of the hair coat and that the belly and groin areas are wetted down as well. Avoid complete immersion in water because heat cannot leave the body as effectively. If available use a fan to help cool the animal while it is wet. If possible take the rectal temperature and stop cooling measures when the temperature is 103°F. Once you begin cooling measures take your pet to a veterinarian immediately and continue cooling (air conditioning) enroute if needed.
Hit by car:
Before administering first aid, make sure the animal and you are not in danger of further injury from oncoming traffic. Apply a muzzle on dogs and put a blanket over cats before attempting to touch the animal to decrease the chance of being bitten or scratched. Check the animal’s level of alertness as well as its breathing rate and effort. If the animal is unconscious and not breathing check for a heartbeat. See the section on CPR if there is no breathing or heartbeat. If possible check the color of the gums (do not attempt on a dog who is not muzzled or on an alert, fearful cat). Pale gums may indicate shock or bleeding. Check for external bleeding and open wounds. If external bleeding is severe especially if the blood is spurting instead of oozing, apply direct pressure over the wound using a clean gauze or cloth. If severe bleeding is present and the wound is on a leg, the chest, or the belly place a clean wrap over the sight. Do not use tourniquets to stop bleeding. IF the animal bleeds through a bandage do not remove the bandage but place a new one over it. Check for any abnormal position of the limbs but do not attempt to straighten or re-position the leg. If bone is visible through a wound rinse the area with clean water and place a clean bandage over the exposed bone. Transport dogs to the veterinarian immediately on a board, stretcher, or a blanket used as a stretcher. Make sure the legs of the animal are supported on the board or stretcher and that the animal can not fall off .Cats and small dogs may be placed in a small box or carrier. All animals hit by a car should be examined by a veterinarian regardless of how mild the signs may appear to be.
Hot Spots:
Hot spots (acute moist dermatitis) are seen more frequently in dogs than cats. These lesions are due to self inflicted trauma (licking, scratching, biting) that is set off by a skin irritant. Causes of irritation include fleas, allergies, insect and tick bites, skin infections and grooming complications. Typically, the lesions are moist, red, very tender and itchy, and have a foul odor. Hair loss may or may not be present and often the extent of the lesion is not seen if the pet has a thick hair coat. Lesions can be in multiple areas and grow rapidly in size. Treatment includes stopping the irritation and itching, controlling infection and removing the inciting cause when possible. For initial home care clean the area with tepid water and a mild veterinary approved solution and prevent the animal from scratching or chewing at the area. Cool compresses may temporarily relieve the irritation but usually an oral or topical mediation prescribed by your veterinarian is needed. Drying agents as well as antibiotics may be recommended by your veterinarian.
Insect bites:
Allergic reactions to bees, hornets, yellow jackets, wasps, and spiders are common in dogs and cats. Most of the bites/stings occur on the face, ears and paws. Typical signs of an allergic reaction are swelling and redness around the eyes, eyelids, muzzle, nose, and ears. If the bite/sting occurs on the paw it will be swollen. Trouble breathing may occur in severe allergic reactions. If an animal has these signs, look for a stinger and remove it with tweezers if it is present. Most animals will need to see a veterinarian to receive the initial allergy medications by injection but call your veterinarian for advice regarding home vs. clinic treatment. Your veterinarian may advise to have antihistamines available at home for any future incidents.
Punctures:
Puncture wounds may occur from fights with other animals or trauma from sharp objects. Before attempting to touch the wound muzzle a dog or place a blanket over a cat to decrease the chance of being bitten or scratched. Clean the area with clean tepid water or saline solution. Puncture wounds often are deeper than they appear and infection can be a serious problem. Do not attempt to probe the extent of the puncture but bring the animal into a veterinarian as soon as possible. If the object that caused the puncture is still imbedded in the wound do not attempt to remove it because this could cause further damage. Rather, bring the animal to the veterinarian immediately. Any deep puncture on the chest or belly should be covered with a clean cloth or gauze and a light applied wrap applied.
Poisoning:
Have the number of an animal poison control center always readily available. Signs of poisoning are varied and often non-specific and may be delayed depending on the type of toxin ingested. Some common sources of poisoning are: medications, household cleaners, insecticides/pesticides, chemicals and plants. If you know an animal ingested something that might be toxic call poison control immediately and bring the animal to the veterinarian. NEVER INDUCE VOMITING WITHOUT THE ADVICE OF A VETERINARIAN. Certain toxins can cause more damage or complications if vomiting occurs. Whenever possible bring the container or label of the product ingested or if it was plant material such as mushrooms bring a sample with you to the veterinarian.
Seizures:
If an animal is having a seizure, do not move it unless the animal is in an unsafe area such as near stairs, furniture or dangerous objects. If the animal is at risk of falling, set up a barricade with pillows and blankets. The majority of seizures in pets are the “grand mal” type. The animal is usually on its side and the legs are paddling. There may be vocalizing, drooling, abnormal facial movements and loss of bladder and bowel control. The animal will not be aware of its surroundings. Accurately time and record the length and severity of the seizure. Keep the environment quiet. All animals should be evaluated by a veterinarian if the seizure was a first time occurrence. Even if your pet has a history of seizures immediate veterinary care is needed if a seizure lasts more than 2 minutes or the animal is having several seizures in a day. If an animal is being treated for diabetes and experiences a seizure rub a small amount of Karo syrup or sugar water on the gums in case the cause of the seizure is low blood sugar. Do not attempt to make the animal swallow. Bring your pet to the veterinarian immediately.
Urination blockage (inability to urinate):
This can occur in any cat or dog but it is most commonly seen in male cats and male dogs. Some breeds of dogs such as Dalmatians are at higher risk of developing an obstruction. The obstruction is usually caused by mineral plugs or stones that block the urinary outflow tract (urethra). Early signs of a possible urinary blockage may include straining to urinate but producing little to no urine, crying when urinating, small drops of blood, excessive licking at the prepuce or vulva, frequent trips in and out of the litter box (cats) or frequent need to go outdoors (dogs). As the time since blocked increases waste products build up in the blood and the animal may exhibit vomiting, weakness, lethargy, disorientation, collapse and death. In ability to urinate is a life threatening emergency that must be dealt with quickly. If you notice any abnormalities when your pet is urinating go the veterinarian immediately.
Vomiting:
Vomiting can occur for many reasons and may be of little consequence or it may be life threatening. Only you can decide how distress your pet is and when immediate veterinary care is indicated. If your pet is alert, active, not distressed and vomits only a couple of times conservative management at home may be sufficient. Do not offer anything by mouth for 4 – 6 hours and then offer small amounts of water or ice chips. If there is no vomiting offer a small amount of bland food 12 hours after vomiting has stopped. If vomiting persists see your veterinarian. Vomiting is an emergency and the pet should go to the veterinarian immediately if any of the following signs are present: the animal is distressed; there is blood in the vomit; the pet ingested medication ,a foreign object, toxic material, or toxic plants; there is non-productive retching and/or vomiting; there is a swollen belly; there is weakness, lethargy or collapse; if the gums are pale, bluish or dark red; if the pet has a preexisting disease; or if there is a fever ( >103°F) or a low body temperature (<100°F).
Pet First Aid Kit
* Board or blanket to use as a stretcher
* Soft cloth to use as a muzzle (do not use if vomiting)
* Penlight
* Triple antibiotic ointment
* Towels or cloth to control bleeding
* Gauze and bandage material for wrapping wounds
* Adhesive tape
* Saline eye flush
* Syringe or eyedropper for medicating
* Non-stick (Telfa) bandages
* Instant ice pack
* Tweezers
* Bandage scissors
* Thermometer
* Disposable gloves
* Artificial tears eye ointment
* Medical tape
* List of Emergency Phone Numbers
I am currently in the process of moving, leaving next Friday Feb 6th for Ashland. One more 5 hour drive a day and a half later and I'll be in my new hometown, Portland, Oregon. I cannot wait. I am so super excited and so happy about where life has recently taken me and grateful for what the universe has continually been handing me. Please be patient as I get all packed, moved, unpacked and organized, and then rested and settled; so over the next two weeks I won't be posting much, if at all - unless I come across something urgent of course! :) Until then please enjoy my archives and look forward to lots of Portland pictures of local pets and events, pet gatherings, listings on pet activities and events all over the Northwest. I have a new passion and a new focus :) Unfortunately, I won't be able to post upcoming Bay Area dates anymore because my focus will be on providing top notch pet information and advice for pet owners all over Portland as well as Seattle and other parts of Oregon that I will visit frequently, like Ashland, Bend, the Coast, etc.
Thanks! :)
Here is a great database of advice on General First Aid from DoveLewis Animal Hospital, an amazing place for emergencies, animal assisted therapy and rescue, plus a whole lot more. I will introduce OHS later ;)
Emergency Care for your animals
From the experts at DoveLewis Emergency Animal Hospital:
Medical Director Andrea Oncken, DVM, DACVECC
Critical Care Director Alicia Faggella, DVM, DACVECC
Because of the serious and sensitive nature of emergency and critical care veterinary medicine, DoveLewis Emergency Animal Hospital does not give medical diagnoses or advice over the phone or through e-mail. The health of your pet is very important to us. We believe that in order to give you and your pet the best care, we must see your animal before we can accurately give a diagnosis or advice. We are open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year for emergency and critical cases. Your regular veterinarian may be best suited for non-emergency questions or concerns. These short explanations and general advice are for information only.
Website link: http://dovelewis.org/
Abrasions:
An abrasion does not fully penetrate and only involves the outer layer of skin. Small, uninfected wounds can be attended to at home. Large, infected, or multiple abrasions should be treated by a veterinarian. Use warm water or saline to flush out the wound. Flush enough to remove all dirt and debris from the area. Keep the wound clean and dry, and discourage your pet from licking at it (you may need to pick up an Elizabethan collar from your veterinarian). Monitor the wound for increasing pain, redness, or a pus-like discharge. If any of these occur, the animal should be seen by a veterinarian.
Artificial respiration:
If your animal stops breathing, you may need to start artificial respirations.
Birth (Whelping and Queening):
Dogs and cats have gestation periods of approximately 58 to 64 days. After 45 days, you could have an x-ray taken to see how many puppies or kittens to expect. By this time the skeletal tissues have calcified enough to be seen on a radiograph. At the time of birth, the animal will usually nest and will seek an isolated, quiet and private area. Expect one pup every 45-60 minutes with 10-30 minutes of hard straining. If she is seen straining hard for over one hour or if she takes longer than a four-hour break and you know more pups or kittens are present, a veterinarian should be consulted. Cats tend to queen a little faster, although they can occasionally take up to 24 hours to birth the entire litter, especially if the queen is young or nervous. Help clean the airways of the new puppies and kittens and place them back with their mother to start nursing.
Seek veterinary attention immediately if:
* The mother appears to be in pain
* 30-60 minutes of strong contractions occur with no newborn being produced
* Greater than four hours pass between newborns and you expect more
* A fetus seems to be stuck in the birth canal
* More than 65 days of gestation (since the last breeding) have passed
* The mother passes a green-colored or foul smelling vaginal discharge
Bite wounds:
Your animal may be frightened and hurt, so approach with caution. Use a muzzle if needed. Flush out the wound with saline or warm water. Apply pressure if it there is active bleeding. A light bandage may be applied to a limb if there is extensive bleeding, but take care to not wrap the limb too tight, cutting off circulation. Any bite wound to the chest or abdomen has potential to be penetrating into the body cavity. Cover chest and abdominal wounds with a clean cloth or bandage material and have your pet seen by a veterinarian immediately. Be sure to have your pet examined if there has been any bite wound inflicted. Often what you see at the surface, such as a few small punctures or bruising, will have extensive deeper tissue damage that you cannot see. Bite wounds can become infected, so it is necessary to have your pet started on appropriate antibiotic therapy.
Bloat:
What is Bloat?
Bloat, or gastric dilatation and volvulus, is a condition in which the stomach rotates on its own axis. Once the stomach flips, the entrance and exits to the stomach become pinched off, and it becomes greatly distended with gas that has no outlet. The stomach becomes greatly dilated and painful, and circulation to the stomach and other major organs becomes severely compromised, leading to shock and eventual death.
Bloat can occur rapidly; a dog can be dead within hours of the stomach distention. Bloat is most prevalent in large breeds with deep chests and seems to occur more commonly in dogs who have a tendency to be easily agitated or nervous, and in dogs who exercise after a large meal. Any time bloat occurs, it is very serious. Symptoms include attempts at vomiting with no production (occasionally they may get up small amounts of foamy fluid); a hard, distended abdomen; and severe abdominal pain. If you observe any of these symptoms in your dog, it must be transported to a veterinarian immediately. This is a true emergency.
Broken toenail:
To stop the bleeding, you may pack the nail with styptic powder, cornstarch, or white ivory soap. You or your veterinarian may need to trim the rest of the nail off to prevent further pain or bleeding. Occasionally a nail that breaks off very close to the nail bed may create an infection in the toe that will require antibiotic treatment so watch for any limping that persists longer than two days.
Burns:
Flush the injury immediately with cool running water. Gently apply an ice pack wrapped in a soft towel to the area. Seek veterinary attention immediately.
Choking:
Check to see if your animal is choking on a foreign object. If so, be careful not to get bitten, or push the object further down the throat. If the animal can still pass some breath, it is best to take it to a veterinarian immediately, so the object can be removed under sedation with the proper instrumentation. If the animal cannot pass any air, you can try to remove or dislodge the object carefully. If possible, use a second person to hold the mouth open while the first person attempts to remove the object. Pliers or tweezers may be used to grasp the object if the animal is calm and the object is visible in the back of the throat. If the object is not visible or cannot be dislodged, you may also use quick chest compressions by standing behind the animal and balling the fists under the sternum and use gentle but firm upward thrusts to force air from the lungs to dislodge the object. Even if you are able to dislodge the object yourself, always seek veterinary care after the incident to make sure there are no complications.
CPR:
Check to see if your animal is choking on a foreign object. If so, see “Choking.” If the animal is not breathing and the airway and mouth are free of objects, lay it down on its right side. Check for a heartbeat by listening to the chest where the elbow touches the ribs. If there is no heartbeat, you can start chest compressions with the flat of your hand. If the animal is a medium-sized or large dog, kneel over the animal and place one hand over the top of the other on the center of the chest. Then compress downward, moving the chest in and out rapidly (approximately one compression per second). Alternatively, if the animal is a cat or a small dog, you can place one or both hands on either side of the chest and compress inwards. To breathe for the animal extend the neck so that there is a straight airway, close its mouth; place your mouth around its nose and mouth (or just its nose if it is a large dog) and blow air into the nose until the chest expands. Be sure to keep the neck out straight, not flexed. You should be able to see the chest expand with each breath... don't over-do forcing air into the lungs. This should be performed every 5 seconds. If chest compressions are required to stimulate heart contractions, alternate this with the breathing procedure after 10 heart compressions. Seek veterinary attention immediately. Unfortunately, this procedure, because the patient may already be dead, is extremely unsuccessful in animals.
Cuts:
Use warm water or saline to flush out the wound. Flush enough to remove all dirt and debris from the area. Apply direct pressure with a cloth or towel if the wound is bleeding. A bandage can be applied to a wound on a limb if the bleeding will not stop. Take care not to apply the bandage too tightly, cutting off circulation to the limb. Cuts should always be treated by a veterinarian to prevent infection and to assess for damage to the deeper tissues.
Diarrhea:
Your judgment regarding the health status of a pet with diarrhea is critical. A pet with diarrhea and also weakness, pain, vomiting, or agitation may be in real trouble; whereas a pet with diarrhea but few other signs of distress may sometimes be treated at home. Always inform your veterinarian about the situation and have a fecal sample checked just in case worms or other parasites such as Giardia are a factor. Withhold food only for 12-24 hours to give the intestines a rest. Water should still be given frequently but in small amounts. Call your veterinarian for advice. You may be required to bring your animal in for medical attention if it persists for more than 24-48 hours or if there are concurrent symptoms (vomiting, weakness, lethargy, appetite loss, abdominal pain, bloody diarrhea). Chronic or frequent episodes of loose stool may be a sign of Inflammatory Bowel Disease which often requires veterinary attention.
Eye injuries:
Any injury to the eye can lead to permanent scarring or blindness. You can use any commercial saline flush to clean foreign objects from the eye and to visualize the extent of the damage. If your animal is squinting, hiding its eyes from the light, has a raised third eyelid or has any blood within or around the eye, seek veterinary attention immediately. Home treatment of eye injuries is not recommended without a veterinarian's exam and recommendation. Even a simple scratch on the cornea from a thorn or cinder could lead to severe damage to the eye.
Fractures:
Your animal may be frightened and hurt, so approach with caution. Use a muzzle and look for bleeding. Apply a clean cloth or bandage material gently to bleeding areas for protection and mild pressure. Do not pull on the fractured leg. Transport your pet as quickly as possible to your veterinarian, using a board or large blanket as a stretcher. Give careful support to any fractured limbs. Simple support may be better than trying to splint a fractured limb yourself. If the limb is severely unstable, or if the fracture is open, and there is a lot of movement of the fracture site, a temporary splint can be applied. Wrap a newspaper or magazine around the limb, and tape it in place, or tape a thin board to the limb, preventing movement of the fractured edges. Immobilization of the fractured limb is the key, as any movement of the fractured bones can lead to further tissue damage and pain.
Frostbite:
Frostbite is uncommon in animals and usually affects the ear tips, paws (mostly the footpads), tail, and scrotum. Hypothermia (low body temperature less than 98*F) may accompany frostbite. Signs of frostbite may be difficult to detect on pigmented skin. Typically the affected skin is pale or bluish in color early on in frostbite (will not detect on the footpads). There is a loss of sensation to the affected areas. With time if the frostbite is severe blisters may appear or the skin may develop dark scabs and the tissue may slough off. Signs of hypothermia are related to the degree of severity and may include shivering (not if temperature below 90°F), dullness, weakness or collapse, low heart rate, pale gums, shallow or slow breathing and coma. Treatment for frostbite and hypothermia includes removing the animal from the cold and checking for low body temperature. If hypothermia is present wrap the animal in blankets. If frostbite is present apply warm, moist compresses to the affected areas. If the feet or a large area of the body have frostbite, submerge these areas in water warmed to 102 - 103°F for 10 – 15 minutes. Gently dry the areas. DO NOT RUB THE AFFECTED AREAS as this will cause more tissue damage. Do not use dry heat such as hairdryers or electric heating pads for re-warming as further damage may occur. Seek veterinary attention immediately.
Heat exhaustion/ Heatstroke:
Heat exhaustion or heatstroke (more severe form of overheating) occurs when an animal cannot keep its core body temperature within a safe range (< 106°F). Environmental (temperature, humidity, shelter, lack of water), physical (breed, age, weight, exercise), and medical (medications, pre-existing illness) factors contribute to the development of heatstroke. Pets left in warm cars for even a few minutes are at high risk of developing heatstroke. Severity of signs depends on how severely the body temperature is elevated, duration of exposure to adverse conditions, and any pre-existing conditions. Signs may include: restlessness, excessive panting, brick red gums, lethargy, weakness, wobbly gait, vomiting and diarrhea. Progression to blindness, seizures, collapse, coma and death may occur. Treatment must start immediately. Remove the animal from the heat and continuously wet down the animal thoroughly by spraying or pouring cool water over the animal. Make sure there is complete penetration of the hair coat and that the belly and groin areas are wetted down as well. Avoid complete immersion in water because heat cannot leave the body as effectively. If available use a fan to help cool the animal while it is wet. If possible take the rectal temperature and stop cooling measures when the temperature is 103°F. Once you begin cooling measures take your pet to a veterinarian immediately and continue cooling (air conditioning) enroute if needed.
Hit by car:
Before administering first aid, make sure the animal and you are not in danger of further injury from oncoming traffic. Apply a muzzle on dogs and put a blanket over cats before attempting to touch the animal to decrease the chance of being bitten or scratched. Check the animal’s level of alertness as well as its breathing rate and effort. If the animal is unconscious and not breathing check for a heartbeat. See the section on CPR if there is no breathing or heartbeat. If possible check the color of the gums (do not attempt on a dog who is not muzzled or on an alert, fearful cat). Pale gums may indicate shock or bleeding. Check for external bleeding and open wounds. If external bleeding is severe especially if the blood is spurting instead of oozing, apply direct pressure over the wound using a clean gauze or cloth. If severe bleeding is present and the wound is on a leg, the chest, or the belly place a clean wrap over the sight. Do not use tourniquets to stop bleeding. IF the animal bleeds through a bandage do not remove the bandage but place a new one over it. Check for any abnormal position of the limbs but do not attempt to straighten or re-position the leg. If bone is visible through a wound rinse the area with clean water and place a clean bandage over the exposed bone. Transport dogs to the veterinarian immediately on a board, stretcher, or a blanket used as a stretcher. Make sure the legs of the animal are supported on the board or stretcher and that the animal can not fall off .Cats and small dogs may be placed in a small box or carrier. All animals hit by a car should be examined by a veterinarian regardless of how mild the signs may appear to be.
Hot Spots:
Hot spots (acute moist dermatitis) are seen more frequently in dogs than cats. These lesions are due to self inflicted trauma (licking, scratching, biting) that is set off by a skin irritant. Causes of irritation include fleas, allergies, insect and tick bites, skin infections and grooming complications. Typically, the lesions are moist, red, very tender and itchy, and have a foul odor. Hair loss may or may not be present and often the extent of the lesion is not seen if the pet has a thick hair coat. Lesions can be in multiple areas and grow rapidly in size. Treatment includes stopping the irritation and itching, controlling infection and removing the inciting cause when possible. For initial home care clean the area with tepid water and a mild veterinary approved solution and prevent the animal from scratching or chewing at the area. Cool compresses may temporarily relieve the irritation but usually an oral or topical mediation prescribed by your veterinarian is needed. Drying agents as well as antibiotics may be recommended by your veterinarian.
Insect bites:
Allergic reactions to bees, hornets, yellow jackets, wasps, and spiders are common in dogs and cats. Most of the bites/stings occur on the face, ears and paws. Typical signs of an allergic reaction are swelling and redness around the eyes, eyelids, muzzle, nose, and ears. If the bite/sting occurs on the paw it will be swollen. Trouble breathing may occur in severe allergic reactions. If an animal has these signs, look for a stinger and remove it with tweezers if it is present. Most animals will need to see a veterinarian to receive the initial allergy medications by injection but call your veterinarian for advice regarding home vs. clinic treatment. Your veterinarian may advise to have antihistamines available at home for any future incidents.
Punctures:
Puncture wounds may occur from fights with other animals or trauma from sharp objects. Before attempting to touch the wound muzzle a dog or place a blanket over a cat to decrease the chance of being bitten or scratched. Clean the area with clean tepid water or saline solution. Puncture wounds often are deeper than they appear and infection can be a serious problem. Do not attempt to probe the extent of the puncture but bring the animal into a veterinarian as soon as possible. If the object that caused the puncture is still imbedded in the wound do not attempt to remove it because this could cause further damage. Rather, bring the animal to the veterinarian immediately. Any deep puncture on the chest or belly should be covered with a clean cloth or gauze and a light applied wrap applied.
Poisoning:
Have the number of an animal poison control center always readily available. Signs of poisoning are varied and often non-specific and may be delayed depending on the type of toxin ingested. Some common sources of poisoning are: medications, household cleaners, insecticides/pesticides, chemicals and plants. If you know an animal ingested something that might be toxic call poison control immediately and bring the animal to the veterinarian. NEVER INDUCE VOMITING WITHOUT THE ADVICE OF A VETERINARIAN. Certain toxins can cause more damage or complications if vomiting occurs. Whenever possible bring the container or label of the product ingested or if it was plant material such as mushrooms bring a sample with you to the veterinarian.
Seizures:
If an animal is having a seizure, do not move it unless the animal is in an unsafe area such as near stairs, furniture or dangerous objects. If the animal is at risk of falling, set up a barricade with pillows and blankets. The majority of seizures in pets are the “grand mal” type. The animal is usually on its side and the legs are paddling. There may be vocalizing, drooling, abnormal facial movements and loss of bladder and bowel control. The animal will not be aware of its surroundings. Accurately time and record the length and severity of the seizure. Keep the environment quiet. All animals should be evaluated by a veterinarian if the seizure was a first time occurrence. Even if your pet has a history of seizures immediate veterinary care is needed if a seizure lasts more than 2 minutes or the animal is having several seizures in a day. If an animal is being treated for diabetes and experiences a seizure rub a small amount of Karo syrup or sugar water on the gums in case the cause of the seizure is low blood sugar. Do not attempt to make the animal swallow. Bring your pet to the veterinarian immediately.
Urination blockage (inability to urinate):
This can occur in any cat or dog but it is most commonly seen in male cats and male dogs. Some breeds of dogs such as Dalmatians are at higher risk of developing an obstruction. The obstruction is usually caused by mineral plugs or stones that block the urinary outflow tract (urethra). Early signs of a possible urinary blockage may include straining to urinate but producing little to no urine, crying when urinating, small drops of blood, excessive licking at the prepuce or vulva, frequent trips in and out of the litter box (cats) or frequent need to go outdoors (dogs). As the time since blocked increases waste products build up in the blood and the animal may exhibit vomiting, weakness, lethargy, disorientation, collapse and death. In ability to urinate is a life threatening emergency that must be dealt with quickly. If you notice any abnormalities when your pet is urinating go the veterinarian immediately.
Vomiting:
Vomiting can occur for many reasons and may be of little consequence or it may be life threatening. Only you can decide how distress your pet is and when immediate veterinary care is indicated. If your pet is alert, active, not distressed and vomits only a couple of times conservative management at home may be sufficient. Do not offer anything by mouth for 4 – 6 hours and then offer small amounts of water or ice chips. If there is no vomiting offer a small amount of bland food 12 hours after vomiting has stopped. If vomiting persists see your veterinarian. Vomiting is an emergency and the pet should go to the veterinarian immediately if any of the following signs are present: the animal is distressed; there is blood in the vomit; the pet ingested medication ,a foreign object, toxic material, or toxic plants; there is non-productive retching and/or vomiting; there is a swollen belly; there is weakness, lethargy or collapse; if the gums are pale, bluish or dark red; if the pet has a preexisting disease; or if there is a fever ( >103°F) or a low body temperature (<100°F).
Pet First Aid Kit
* Board or blanket to use as a stretcher
* Soft cloth to use as a muzzle (do not use if vomiting)
* Penlight
* Triple antibiotic ointment
* Towels or cloth to control bleeding
* Gauze and bandage material for wrapping wounds
* Adhesive tape
* Saline eye flush
* Syringe or eyedropper for medicating
* Non-stick (Telfa) bandages
* Instant ice pack
* Tweezers
* Bandage scissors
* Thermometer
* Disposable gloves
* Artificial tears eye ointment
* Medical tape
* List of Emergency Phone Numbers
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
TIP: Keeping Horses Warm
Winter is in full force, and horse owners need to make sure their animals stay warm, according to North Dakota State University Extension Service equine specialist Carrie Hammer, DVM, PhD.
Horse owners have several ways to do that. One of them is giving the horses shelter.
"Horses have a wonderful ability to survive in the cold," Hammer said. "A full winter haircoat is perfect for insulating the horse against the cold winter weather. However, that insulation is lost if the haircoat gets wet. Providing shelter allows the horse to stay dry on wet, snowy days and, ultimately, allows them to stay warm."
Another way to keep horses warm is to feed them hay. Heat is produced through the digestion of feed and can be useful in helping a horse maintain body temperature in cold winter weather. The greatest amount of heat is released when microbes in the gut digest high-fiber feeds such as hay. In cattle, this process is going on in the rumen; in horses, the process occurs in the cecum and large colon.
High-fiber feeds produce more heat during digestion than low-fiber feeds. Thus, digestion of hay will result in the release of more heat than low-fiber grains, such as corn and barely. Although oats are a low-fiber grain, they will produce more heat during digestion, compared with other grains, due to their fibrous outer hull.
"Energy needs are increased during cold weather, and grains certainly can be fed to horses to help meet this need," Hammer said. "However, the bottom line is if you want to help your horse produce body heat, feed him more hay."
"The bottom line is if you want to help your horse produce body heat, feed him more hay."
–Dr. Carrie Hammer
The lower critical temperature for horses with a heavy winter coat during dry, calm weather is approximately 30° Fahrenheit. For each 10-degree change below the critical temperature, horses require an additional intake of approximately 2 pounds of feed per day, assuming the feed has an energy density of 1 megacalorie per pound, which is typical for most hay.
A 10- to 15-mph wind will require horses to consume an additional 4 to 8 pounds of hay to meet their increased energy requirements when temperatures are 32° F. When a horse without shelter encounters both wind and wet snow at 32° F, the animal must consume an additional 10 to 14 pounds of hay.
"Considering that a 1,000-pound horse consumes 15 to 20 pounds of hay daily to maintain body weight in ideal weather conditions, consuming an additional 10 to 14 pounds becomes impossible for many horses," Hammer said. "Therefore, in extreme conditions, hay alone is usually insufficient to supply the energy demands for a horse to maintain his body weight, and some type of additional grain source is justified."
While many horse owners might not worry about geldings losing weight during the winter, pregnant mares should not lose weight. In the coldest months, many mares are in the second and third trimester of pregnancy, a time when a great deal of fetal development and growth is occurring. Research has shown that nutrient restriction during this time not only can affect fetal growth, but also can have lasting effects on the growth and performance of the foal after birth, according to Hammer.
Maintaining a thin horse takes additional feed, compared with a fleshy horse. Because a layer of fat under the skin is the second line of defense against cold weather after the haircoat, thin horses require more feed to keep their body warm. Ideally, horses should be moderately fleshy to fleshy (body condition score of 6 or 7) at the start of winter.
Putting a blanket on the horse can also help keep it warm. A variety of winter blankets are available.
"These can be very beneficial, especially for horses that do not have a full, healthy winter hair coat," Hammer said. "However, blankets also can be detrimental because a blanket prevents the horse's hairs from standing up (their natural defense against cold weather), and using too light a blanket will actually cause the horse to get chilled."
As a general rule, horse owners should use a heavyweight blanket for subzero weather. These blankets usually have 400 grams or more of insulation.
Blankets also must be maintained. An ill-fitting blanket can rub, resulting in sores, and a dirty or wet blanket can lead to skin problems, such as fungal infections.
"If the predictions hold true, it sounds like we are in for a long, cold winter," Hammer said. "Make sure to do your part to keep your horse warm and comfortable during this winter season."
Horse owners have several ways to do that. One of them is giving the horses shelter.
"Horses have a wonderful ability to survive in the cold," Hammer said. "A full winter haircoat is perfect for insulating the horse against the cold winter weather. However, that insulation is lost if the haircoat gets wet. Providing shelter allows the horse to stay dry on wet, snowy days and, ultimately, allows them to stay warm."
Another way to keep horses warm is to feed them hay. Heat is produced through the digestion of feed and can be useful in helping a horse maintain body temperature in cold winter weather. The greatest amount of heat is released when microbes in the gut digest high-fiber feeds such as hay. In cattle, this process is going on in the rumen; in horses, the process occurs in the cecum and large colon.
High-fiber feeds produce more heat during digestion than low-fiber feeds. Thus, digestion of hay will result in the release of more heat than low-fiber grains, such as corn and barely. Although oats are a low-fiber grain, they will produce more heat during digestion, compared with other grains, due to their fibrous outer hull.
"Energy needs are increased during cold weather, and grains certainly can be fed to horses to help meet this need," Hammer said. "However, the bottom line is if you want to help your horse produce body heat, feed him more hay."
"The bottom line is if you want to help your horse produce body heat, feed him more hay."
–Dr. Carrie Hammer
The lower critical temperature for horses with a heavy winter coat during dry, calm weather is approximately 30° Fahrenheit. For each 10-degree change below the critical temperature, horses require an additional intake of approximately 2 pounds of feed per day, assuming the feed has an energy density of 1 megacalorie per pound, which is typical for most hay.
A 10- to 15-mph wind will require horses to consume an additional 4 to 8 pounds of hay to meet their increased energy requirements when temperatures are 32° F. When a horse without shelter encounters both wind and wet snow at 32° F, the animal must consume an additional 10 to 14 pounds of hay.
"Considering that a 1,000-pound horse consumes 15 to 20 pounds of hay daily to maintain body weight in ideal weather conditions, consuming an additional 10 to 14 pounds becomes impossible for many horses," Hammer said. "Therefore, in extreme conditions, hay alone is usually insufficient to supply the energy demands for a horse to maintain his body weight, and some type of additional grain source is justified."
While many horse owners might not worry about geldings losing weight during the winter, pregnant mares should not lose weight. In the coldest months, many mares are in the second and third trimester of pregnancy, a time when a great deal of fetal development and growth is occurring. Research has shown that nutrient restriction during this time not only can affect fetal growth, but also can have lasting effects on the growth and performance of the foal after birth, according to Hammer.
Maintaining a thin horse takes additional feed, compared with a fleshy horse. Because a layer of fat under the skin is the second line of defense against cold weather after the haircoat, thin horses require more feed to keep their body warm. Ideally, horses should be moderately fleshy to fleshy (body condition score of 6 or 7) at the start of winter.
Putting a blanket on the horse can also help keep it warm. A variety of winter blankets are available.
"These can be very beneficial, especially for horses that do not have a full, healthy winter hair coat," Hammer said. "However, blankets also can be detrimental because a blanket prevents the horse's hairs from standing up (their natural defense against cold weather), and using too light a blanket will actually cause the horse to get chilled."
As a general rule, horse owners should use a heavyweight blanket for subzero weather. These blankets usually have 400 grams or more of insulation.
Blankets also must be maintained. An ill-fitting blanket can rub, resulting in sores, and a dirty or wet blanket can lead to skin problems, such as fungal infections.
"If the predictions hold true, it sounds like we are in for a long, cold winter," Hammer said. "Make sure to do your part to keep your horse warm and comfortable during this winter season."
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Dog Bone Alley Events in Jan
Class on preparing your dog for a baby at home!
In the last few years, many planning and coping strategies have been developed to help you get your dog ready to live with an infant or toddler. Join us at our Alameda store on Wednesday, January 28th and learn what to do before the baby comes.
In this interactive workshop, you'll explore practical management techniques with SF SPCA -certified trainer Kate S. Knight. You'll come away with a customized plan for success and the top five commands your dog needs to know. If you've already had your baby, and find yourself needing some tips, please join us.
The talk will take place at our Alameda store and begins promptly at 7:30pm. Please e-mail or call us at 510-521-5800 to reserve your space now. We love dogs but request that they not attend.
Pet Adoption Days:
ARF will be visiting Dog Bone Alley in Danville with pets available for adoption on Thursday, January 8th from 11:00am to 2:00pm. ARF visits our Danville store on the second Thursday of every month.
The Berkeley-East Bay Humane Society will be visiting Dog Bone Alley in Alameda with pets available for adoption on Sunday, January 25th from 11:00am to 3:00pm. The BEBHS visits our Alameda store the fourth Sunday of every month.
Stop by and meet these adorable pets looking for a home!
In the last few years, many planning and coping strategies have been developed to help you get your dog ready to live with an infant or toddler. Join us at our Alameda store on Wednesday, January 28th and learn what to do before the baby comes.
In this interactive workshop, you'll explore practical management techniques with SF SPCA -certified trainer Kate S. Knight. You'll come away with a customized plan for success and the top five commands your dog needs to know. If you've already had your baby, and find yourself needing some tips, please join us.
The talk will take place at our Alameda store and begins promptly at 7:30pm. Please e-mail or call us at 510-521-5800 to reserve your space now. We love dogs but request that they not attend.
Pet Adoption Days:
ARF will be visiting Dog Bone Alley in Danville with pets available for adoption on Thursday, January 8th from 11:00am to 2:00pm. ARF visits our Danville store on the second Thursday of every month.
The Berkeley-East Bay Humane Society will be visiting Dog Bone Alley in Alameda with pets available for adoption on Sunday, January 25th from 11:00am to 3:00pm. The BEBHS visits our Alameda store the fourth Sunday of every month.
Stop by and meet these adorable pets looking for a home!
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