Friday, October 31, 2008

Best Cat Video Ever!

http://video.stumbleupon.com/#p=fq55ieixwd

The Honey Badger

This animal is insanely amazing! I've never seen anything like it and I had no idea Badgers were like this. It is called 'the most fearless animal on earth'. Check it out: http://video.stumbleupon.com/#p=e0uyj5fhzt

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Last minute Halloween dog costume ideas!

This is taken from the Woof Report:




New Woof Report Friends page! Is your dog there?
See our photos from Pet Pride Day in Golden Gate Park
Let other dog people in on the scoop. Invite them to subscribe to Woof Report!

Last Minute Halloween Costume Ideas | October 30, 2008

It’s Halloween eve and your dog doesn’t have a costume! Quick, get out a white sheet and some scissors for a classic ghost costume you can make in minutes – and best of all, no sewing required!

Thanks to Cerena Zutis from CZ Training and her adorable models, Little Guy (pictured) and Mariah, we’ve got the details for this famous trick or treat disguise. Follow along:

What you need:

* A sheet, preferably flannel because it stays in place on its own
* Scissors
* A plastic pumpkin treat bucket or a pumpkin dog toy
* A doggie trick or treater

How to:
Cutting the holes in the right place is the essential to the costume and the muzzle (face) hole is the most important. Size it correctly to keep the costume in place on your dog. Too big and the whole costume will slide back too far.

Next, work on the eye and ear holes. Make all holes a little smaller than you think they need to be -- you can always cut more fabric if necessary, but you can’t add it back on. Place the costume over your dog, muzzle first and smooth it over his back. The costume can be attached to your dog in some way, but that prevents it from flowing nicely, so you may just want to stop your dog and adjust the drape of the costume as needed.

Lastly, put the pumpkin bucket handle in your dog’s mouth for a laugh from door to door. Keep in mind that this last step is likely the hardest part of the costume, so just having him hold a toy pumpkin would certainly also work – and need we say, makes your pup look just as adorable.

The Scoop:

Little Guy and Mariah modeling his their costumes
www.youtube.com/lgandmariah

Little Guy’s Halloween Trick
www.youtube.com/lg

Instructions to make Halloween accessories for your dog -- bandanas, embellished collars and t-shirts. Don’t say we didn’t warn you – these require sewing skills.
www.diynetwork.com/doggiehalloween

Thank you to Cerena Zutis from CZ Training, Little Guy and Mariah for the tip.

PLEASE Vote YES on PROP 2

Here is more information: http://www.yesonprop2.com/

This site offers you information covering both sides, yes and no votes. I was very confused and did not understand why anyone would vote no on this prop, as I feel strongly that something like this should have been done years ago, as has been done in Oregon, Arizona and one more that I cannot think of; but it's on the site. There is a great Q&A section that will answer all of your questions and give you both sides + a great Myth versus Facts section. If anything, click on that section and read that to make your decision. There are no lies here, just plain and simple facts about this prop.

Please be a voice for animals who are treated so cruelly in the farming industry. Factory farming is animal cruellity! Please pass the word before Nov 4th!

Thank you :)

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Website for chicken owners or lovers

Over the summer, I was in charge of quite a large number of water fowl - approximately 50 (and growing with all the baby chicken litters) of various breeds of chickens and hens, lots of ducks who were all very scared of me :( and a bunch of turkeys plus one very mean pair of geese - a couple who were inseperable. I learned a lot from that job, one that all of those birds make quite a mess and boy does it smell nasty. The worst was over the summer when it was so hot that I was just miserable since nothing was shaded in the coop - when the eggs would explode in the hot sun. I won't even go into details about the way that smelled. Anyway, the positive experience I had my first day with these chickens, were that they loved people and they equated people with food but that they were also very friendly and it was so easy to interact with them and start to care about them, as a pet almost, something I had never experienced. I didn't eat chicken for months after that first day. Some individuals were so happy and friendly, that they would walk up to me wanting to be petted and they are so soft, and their feathers are so beautiful.

So because this blog literally focuses on ALL species of animals around the world and my experiences with them, I like to keep up to date on all of my animal knowledge and working with the chickens just benefits me as a pet sitter and I know that when i move, it will be good that I do have experience with farm animals, as there is a lot of country and farms on the outskirts of Portland downtown. It was a great experience and I would love to have it again. So here is a great website I found that finally answered my question: how many breeds of chickens are there and how many different colors/patterns/sizes/shapes do they come in?? YOu can take a look here: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/BRKPoultryPage.html. :)

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Info/Tip: Salmonella in Reptiiles & other animals

So I have an upcoming reptile care job at the end of December so I'm trying to do as much reading up and studying that I can on reptiles, the different species, etc and I will know more about what specifically I should read about once I meet all of them this week! I came across this great link which contained info on Salmonella, a common bacteria that can be passed on to humans from reptiles as well as even dogs & cats, something that I did not know (I thought it was only reptiles!). The site is: http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/. While her information on the front page has not been updated since 2006, the links on information about various species and info on all sorts of information related to care of reptiles, all of those links work and are up to date. So I still recommend the website. Hopefully you can learn something new from the article below as I have! :)

Salmonella in Reptiles and Other Animals

I attended a reptile symposium here in Toronto in 1997. One of the speakers was a local reptile veterinarian- Dr. Craig Mosely. Part of the lecture he gave was about common ailments that many reptiles and amphibians suffer from. The other part of his lecture concerned zoonotic diseases such as Salmonella that animals may pass on to their human keepers and how we may prevent this transmission. Of course I took notes! On this page you will find information that I received during this lecture, and from doing research on my own.

Did you know that in one study, that was not species specific, of animals that had already died of various illnesses:

  • 50% of snakes and lizards were found to carry salmonella, and
  • 7% of the turtles carried salmonella as well
  • 30% of dogs tested also carry a salmonella bacteria

So if you have say four reptiles, you could consider that perhaps 2 of them are infected with salmonella.

Estimated Infection rate in Reptiles

Species Percentage infected
Turtles 12.1-85%
Snakes 16-92%
Lizards 36-77%

The vet himself was infected by salmonella from his pet cat! So it's not just reptiles and chicken that carry the over 2200 species of salmonella. Most animals seem to be host to one form or another- that also includes us!

Almost all animals- reptiles and mammals can carry salmonella bacteria. It is something that all pet owners should be aware of- not just reptile keepers! While many reptiles do carry one form or another of salmonella please keep in mind that if you take proper precautions the chances of a healthy adult becoming ill with salmonella from a reptile will be very low. It would be much easier to get a salmonella infection from poorly cooked or prepared eggs or chicken.

There are over 2000 strains of salmonella bacteria. Many of these strains are species specific and cannot cross over from one species to another. Many of these strains do not cause symptoms in their host but may make another species quite ill if the bacteria is one of those that is able to infect another species.

Of the strains of bacteria that can cross over from an animal to a human, many will cause no noticeable illness, or will perhaps make the person feel slightly ill and they may only think that they have a mild form of the flu. Other strains can make humans quite ill with severe flu like symptoms.



Whether salmonella bacteria infections should be treated?

Unless the animal is showing signs and symptoms that it itself is suffering from a salmonella infection it is believed that no reptile should be treated. First of all it is very difficult to tell whether your animal has salmonella. It may shed the bacteria in its feces, but only at certain times. Other times the bacteria may be present in their systems but they are not shedding the bacteria in their feces. So a false negative may be found when the stool is tested.

One other problem is that some people want to try to eliminate the salmonella without finding out exactly what kind of salmonella it is that might be infecting their animal. If your reptile or other animal is found to positive for salmonella a culture and sensitivity test should be done to find out exactly what antibiotic is effective for that salmonella species.

If the wrong antibiotic is used or if not enough of it is used to eliminate that bacteria the salmonella can develop a resistance to that antibiotic! This is scary... this is how other bacteria have come to be resistant to all or most commonly used antibiotics. Anyone hear of the flesh eating bacteria? I rest my case!

There is a salmonella bacteria in the United States that has become resistant to commonly used antibiotics. It doesn't come from reptiles though... but it can be severe.



To help prevent transmission of salmonella bacteria

You should wash your hands between handling each animal- at least ones housed separately so if they are contaminated with salmonella or have any other contagious health problems you are not passing it on from one reptile/animal to another...

Keeping cages clean etc. will not prevent your animals from getting salmonella... in studies that have been done it's been shown that over 50% of the animals carry one or more strains of salmonella... so it's best to just assume that your herps, cat, dog, mouse, gerbil or rabbit all have salmonella and take proper precautions.

Salmonella bacteria can infect the eggs too as they pass through the females cloaca, so even captive bred animals could be infected with salmonella. :( (why do you think 90% of the chicken eggs sold for human consumption are infected by salmonella?)

Wash your hands in warm water, soaping well and scrubbing the skin and under the nails after handling any animal, their enclosures or utensils/dishes you for their care; or preparing chicken or eggs.

You may use an antibacterial soap, but do keep in mind that many bacterias are becoming resistant to antibiotics and antibacterial soaps may actually contribute to the problem and make a bacteria become resistant to some forms of antibiotics.

Keep the cages very clean- removing any feces as soon as you see them, and keep their water clean... disinfect the cages, water bowls and their food dishes with either a mild bleach and water solution, a quatricide compound or novasolon.. and if your pets are allowed to free roam don't allow them in areas used for human food consumption or preparation i.e. the kitchen. Don't wash their things in the kitchen sink either- use the tub or a utility sink and bleach it all when you are done...

Most importantly... do not allow infants, or young children (up to the age of 8 or so), the elderly, or immuno-supressed (cancer, HIV) individuals to handle your animals or preferable even go into a room that reptiles are allowed to free roam in. There are some very virulent forms of salmonella, and salmonella in general seems to affect all of the above types of people in a much more serious manner than say a generally healthy adult.



How long can Salmonella bacteria live outside it's host?

The salmonella bacteria can live outside of the host for quite a long time. In some studies it's been shown to live on formites (contaminated inanimate objects i.e. your couch..) for several months.

In one study some researchers tested an old snake skin shed that had been hanging on a wall for years and it had viable salmonella bacteria on it!!!! (JW Grier, MS Bjerke, and LK Nolan [Zool. Dept & Dept of Veterinary Science & Microbiology, North Dakota State University, Fargo ND] "Snakes and the _Salmonella_ Situation", Bull Chicago Herp Society 28(3):53-59 (1993))

In 43 of their snakes that they checked (JW Grier, MS Bjerke, and LK Nolan [Zool. Dept & Dept of Veterinary Science & Microbiology, North Dakota State University, Fargo ND] "Snakes and the _Salmonella_ Situation", Bull Chicago Herp Society 28(3):53-59 (1993)), they found 24 serotypes of Salmonella, with 38 snakes (88%) carrying one or more types of S. They checked their snakes several times, occasionally coming up with false negatives in snakes that had previously tested positive. It is interesting to note that they sent duplicate samples out to two independent labs. One found S. in all of the same samples; the other found none! That indicates the importance of using a reptile vet who uses a lab who is familiar with reptile parasites, protozoans, bacterial and fungi to do diagnostic work. They also check an old, unused multi-unit snake display cage that had been in the "home of a private collector who moved to a new house and left the cage at his former house. Although no reptiles had been in the cage or building or even the building for over six months, we recovered viable salmonellae from several units of the cage. "In the process of running our tests, we froze some samples then later thawed and analysed them. Freezing did not kill the salmonellae. These bacteria are very resistant and can persist in the environment."

So those of us with free roaming reptiles and other pets, are particularly vulnerable to contamination, and any visitors we may have are also susceptible too.

Many reptiles (and other pets!) have one strain or another of salmonella- nothing we can do about it- it's part of them ... it's all around us really!

Salmonella bacteria is usually shed in the animals feces and sometimes their saliva ... so if you have a lizard walking around licking things and dragging it's body all over stuff you have potentially contaminate a large area of your home.

So, in general it's best to think of all reptiles and animals as carrying salmonella and to use proper precautions such as good hand washing techniques, and using a bleach and water solution to clean surfaces they come in contact with, their enclosures, their dishes, and their water containers, and not to clean their things in the kitchen sink either! Clean their things in an area not used by humans and use bleach to clean the sink or tub that you used for their stuff.

Note: Lysol spray states on the bottle that it kills salmonella bacteria, but please remember that this is a TOXIC chemical to reptiles. Do not use this!

Substance: Salmonella Remains viable:
tap water 89 days
pond water 115 days
pasture soil 120 days
garden soil 280 days
in avian feces 28 months
bovine feces 30 months
Salmonella in substrate will penetrate through the shells of turtle eggs within one hour of contact.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Information: What is Hippotherapy?

For those not familiar, Hippotherapy is basically horseback riding for the disabled. It's a really neat thing that these horse barns do, especially for little kids and disabled kids and young adults who may otherwise never have access to horses or riding. At some point I would like to find a facility that is close by, where I can volunteer and be part of these wonderful programs.

Here is Wiki's definition to give you an idea:

Hippotherapy

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

According to the American Hippotherapy Association, Inc., "Hippotherapy" is a physical, occupational and speech therapy treatment strategy that utilizes equine movement."

In the hippotherapy environment, a therapist uses the horse's movement to provide carefully graded sensory input. A foundation is established to improve neurological function and sensory processing, which can be generalized to a wide range of daily activities. Unlike in therapeutic horseback riding where specific riding skills are taught, in hippotherapy the movement of the horse is a means to a treatment goal.

History: The medical use of the horse which addresses people with neuromotor dysfunction is called Hippotherapy and was developed in Germany, Austria and Switzerland in the 1960's. In Germany, Hippotherapy was a treatment by two physiotherapists, a specially trained horse and horse handler. The theories of physiotherapy practice where applied and the physiotherapist would give directives to the horse handler as to the gait, tempo, cadence,and direction for the horse to preform which would affect the patient throughout the therapy treatment. The movement of the horse is carefully modulated to influence neuromuscular changes in the patient. In the late 1980's a group of physical, occupational therapists and speech and language pathologists from Canada and the USA went to Germany to learn about hippotherapy. They brought it back to Canada and the USA.

Presently in the USA: Equine Assisted Therapy is the umbrella term for any specially trained licensed health professional who incorporates the equine environment into a treatment session within their scope of practice and professional designation. Equine Assisted Therapy is the umbrella term which lists Hippotherapy and Equine Assisted Psychotherapy. Licensed Physical, Occupational Therapists, Physical and Occupational Therapy Assistants and Speech and Language Pathologists incorporate the horse's movement( hippotherapy) into their total plan of care for their patients. In the Mental Health Industry, Social Workers, Psychologists and Mental Health providers may incorporate Equine Assisted Psychotherapy into their treatment sessions. This is different from hippotherapy where the movement of the horse influences or facilitates an adaptive response in the patient. Forms of Equine Assisted Psychotherapy may have the patient on the horse or off the horse and the treatment is not focused on a set of specific movements for the horse to produce an adaptive response in the patient.

How does the horse help in Hippotherapy?

Hippotherapy comes from the Greek roots hippo-, for horse and the word therapy , thus meaning therapy with the help of a horse.The horse's pelvis has the same three dimensional movement of the humans pelvis at the walk. The horse's three dimensional movement is carefully graded at the walk in each treatment for the patient. This three dimensional movement provides physical and sensory input, which is variable, rhythmic and repetitive. The variability of the horse's gait enables the therapist to grade the degree of input to the patient and utilize this movement in combination with other treatment strategies to achieve desired therapy goals or functional outcomes. In addition, the three-dimensional movement of the horse's pelvis leads to a movement response in the patient's pelvis which is similar to the movement patterns of human walking. A foundation is established to improve neurological function and sensory processing, which can be generalized to a wide range of daily activities and address functional outcomes and therapy goals. Hippotherapy can only be provided by a licensed Physical Therapist, Occupational Therapist or Speech and Language Pathologist. Adults and children with disabilities can improve their posture, muscle tone, coordination, balance,sensory/motor development as well as speech and language skills when hippotherapy is incorporated into a total Plan of Care for a patient.

What does hippotherapy help with?

  • Gross motor skills
  • Speech and language abilities
  • Articulation
  • Oral Motor skills
  • Respiration and postural/core control
  • Fine motor skills
  • Sensory Processing
  • Behavioral and cognitive abilities

Hippotherapy as a treatment strategy for Physical Therapy, Occupational Therapy and Speech and Language Therapy

Physical Therapists who have had special training in hippotherapy will incorporate the three dimensional movement of the horse to achieve gait training goals, balance goals, postural / core control goals, and strengthening and stretching. Improvement in gross motor skills and functional activities for developing children with disabilities are gained as the natural environment and variability of the horse's gait present as new and unique to a child. Coordination and balance as well as equilibrium skills are addressed through the variability of the horse's movement as well as the rhythm, tempo and cadence of the horses movement.

In Occupational Therapy a specially trained Occupational Therapist will incorporate hippotherapy, the movement of the horse, to modulate and organize the sensory systems. Sensory processing via hippotherapy simultaneously addresses the vestibular, proprioceptive, tactile, visual, olfactory, and auditory systems. The occupational therapist will incorporate the movement of the horse, hippotherapy, to modulate the sensory system in preparation for a therapy or treatment goal and lead to a functional activity. The reciprocal three dimensional movement of the horse helps with the development of fine motor skills, visual motor skills, bilateral control and cognition as well.

Although many people associate hippotherapy with physical therapy, hippotherapy as a Speech and Language Therapy strategy is growing more common. Hippotherapy uses a horse to accomplish traditional speech, language, cognitive, and swallowing goals. Carefully modulated, well cadenced equine movement offers an effective means of addressing speech and language deficits through facilitation of the physiological systems that support speech and language function. Utilizing hippotherapy, appropriate sensory processing strategies have been integrated into the treatment to facilitate successful communication.

Medical conditions for which hippotherapy is indicated

Some medical conditions for which hippotherapy may be commonly indicated are listed below. However, hippotherapy is not for every patient; specially trained Physical or Occupational Therapists or Speech and Language Pathologists evaluate each potential patient on an individual basis as per their professional designation and within their scope of practice. There are specific contraindications and precautions for some conditions and diagnosis.

  • Autism Spectrum Disorders
  • Cerebral palsy
  • Cerebral vascular accident (stroke)
  • Developmental delay
  • Down syndrome
  • Functional spinal curvature (scoliosis)
  • Learning or language disabilities
  • Multiple Sclerosis
  • Sensory Processing Disorders
  • Traumatic brain injury

HPCS certification

Hippotherapy Clinical Specialty (HPCS) Certification is a designation indicating board certification of therapists who have advanced knowledge and experience in hippotherapy. Physical therapists, occupational therapists, and speech and language pathologists who have been practicing their profession for at least three years (6,000 hours) and have 100 hours of hippotherapy practice within the three years prior are permitted to take the Hippotherapy Clinical Specialty Certification Examination. Those who pass become board certified in hippotherapy and are entitled to use the HPCS designation after their name. HPCS certification is for five years. After five years the therapist can either retake the exam, or show written evidence of 120 hours of continuing education distributed over the five years, with a relative balance of 50% (60 hours) in education related to equine subject matter: psychology, training, riding skills, etc., 25% (30 hours) in education related to direct service in your professional discipline and 25% (30 hours) in any other subject related to hippotherapy or show written evidence of scholarly activity* appropriate to the field of hippotherapy. Examples of acceptable scholarly activity include Hippotherapy Faculty in Graduate Education, Publication or research of scholarly article in Juried Publication, Scientific research related to hippotherapy, Teaching/developing courses, AHA Approved Course Faculty. The exam is offered twice a year, in February and in August. Please go to the Professional Testing Corporation of New York's website at www.ptcny.com or call them at 212.356.0660 for further information.

External links

http://www.americanhippotherapyassociation.org/
Federation of Riding for the Disabled: http://www.frdi.net/
NARHA: http://www.narha.org/

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Tip: Top 10 Household Hazards for Pets

(I'm playing around with colors).

I'm sure you're doing a great job of keeping your pets safe at home but we can all be more vigilant. So here are the top 10 hazards that can be found in your house or every place else, that can seriously harm your pets. This list is brought to you by the ASPCA/APCC. Last year, the APCC answered more than 116,000 calls, significantly more than the year before. In response, they have released this very helpful list for you.

1. Human medications
From over-the-counter pain relievers to prescription drugs, human medications are the most common cause of poisoning in dogs and cats. *I can tell you from experience that whenever I take my medications, especially my before bed ones, my cat is so interested in all of those colored pills and usually takes to playing with them, knocking them off the bed or sniffing/licking them, which I discipline him for. So be careful!* Just one extra-strength acetaminophen can be deadly to a cat, and just 4 regular-strength ibuprofens can lead to serious kidney problems in a 10-pound dog! Dr. Steven Hansen, a veterinary toxicologist with the ASPCA, suggests storing medications in a secure cabinet out of the animal's reach and watch your pets closely when you have your medications out in the open. For example, don't leave pills out on the counter and walk away - your cat could jump up there, grab the pills and then they are long gone in his/her system and now you need to rush to the vet.

2. Insecticides
In one recent year, the APCC handled more than 27,000 calls reporting problems involving flea & tick products, clearly demonstrating the toxicity of these products. Wherever possible, avoid the use of chemical-laden flea & tick killers in favor of a holistic approach to pest control through diet,, supplements, grooming and natural flea products. *There are many alternative methods that work really well from introducing garlic into your pet's diet to using less toxic forms of medication. An example is of my cat - growing up with cats we always gave them Advantage because they were indoor/outdoor cats and really needed it (and we didn't have alternatives back then). When my cat was old enough to get flea treatments, the first time I used Advantage on him, he because very ill and had an allergic reaction from the chemicals in the treatment. I learned that it makes sense, since Advantage is applied directly to the skin of the animal, rather than ingested, etc. So I switched him to Program, which is a once-a-month packet of liquid that you give to your dog or cat to control the flea cycle by mixing the fluid into their food. It's basically like flea birth control and it gets rid of the fleas that way. It's great, he never had a reaction from it and it always worked well. When I moved home to Alameda with Kineivel, I discovered that on the island that I live on, there isn't really a flea problem here at all anymore and because my cat never goes outside beyond our courtyard and therefore, has no contact with other cats or stray animals and therefore doesn't' have contact with fleas. So just this year, I stopped the Program and didn't' give him anything for flea control. Never got one flea problem, even during flea season. I also give him treats occasionally which have a natural flea control ingredient in them, like garlic and other natural forms of control just as an occasional backup, when he's spending a lot of time outside in the courtyard and when he goes to other places, like up to Tahoe or up to Oregon. I would highly recommend switching from your prescription flea products and especially those awful flea & tick collars - those things are so incredibly toxic - the active ingredient works by going into the skin and will go into your system just by you touching the collar. Scary stuff!

3. Veterinary medications
The poison center has seen a whopping 93% increase in cases involving vet medications, such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, antibiotics and vaccines. Minimize use of these drugs by consulting a holistic vet about alternative treatments and therapies. *I recommend researching the neighborhood where you live and if your neighborhood/city DOES NOT have a high feral/stray cat population, and your cat doesn't go outside or doesn't have contact with any other cats outside, you can get away with just giving your cat the 3-year rabies vaccine. This is another thing my cat is really allergic to - with any vaccine, he gets really sick for a 24 hour period after the vaccine is given. I have to give him a tiny dose of Benedryl to help his system to feel better faster. He is just miserable afterwards, poor guy. So I don't allow any other vaccines for his benefit. Talk to your vet, they should be flexible with giving vaccinations. Tell them your concerns. Plus it is being discovered that vaccines in animals may be a cause of cancer, especially in dogs and cats. Cancers many times form at the injection site and spread from there. *

4. Plants
Houseplants may look good, but many are highly toxic, including common varieties like azalea & rhododendron. Lilies, for example, are highly toxic to cats. Even ingested in small amounts, they can produce life-threatening kidney failure. Keep houseplants out of animal's reach (especially if your pet has a tendency to chew on things!) and provide safe alternatives like barley grass or catnip for cats.

5. Rodenticides
As pet food recalls tragically have shown, rat poisons and similar toxins can lead to potentially life-threatening situations for dogs and cats, including seizure or kidney damage. Consider safer, more humane ways of getting rid of rodents, such as live traps. Just as parents baby-proof a home, why not proactively pet-proof both home and property?

6. Household cleaners
Bleaches, detergents and disinfectants are just some of the household cleaners that can harm furry, four-footed and other companions. Store all cleaners in a secure spot; better yet, switch to nontoxic, green alternatives.

7. Chocolate
Don't share this tasty treat with animals!!! Chocolate contains caffeine-like substances known as methylxanthines, which can cause abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and even death in animals, especially dogs. Typically, the darker the chocolate, the greater the potential for poisoning - makes sense to me.

8. Chemical hazards
This group encompasses antifreeze, drain cleaners, pool and spa chemicals and many others. These substances can cause a variety of problems, ranging from gastrointestinal upset & depression to respiratory difficulties and chemical burns.

9. Physical hazards
Be alert for objects that could cause choking, intestinal obstruction or other injury. Dr Hansen has managed cases involving the ingestion of several common objects - from pet collars and adhesive tape to bones, paper products and similar items. It is important to make sure that items that could be easily knocked over, broken, chewed up or swallowed are kept out of the reach of curious pets.

10. Home Improvement Products
The APCC has dealt with thousands of cases involving paint, solvents, expanding glues and other products used in construction and renovation. Dr. Hansen advises pet parents to keep animals out of areas where home improvement projects are taking place to avoid ingestion of hazardous materials.

For more information, visit: www.ASPCA.org/APCC


Product Review: Wonder Oil Products, Emu jerky

I want to recommend a great treat for cats and dogs. This comes from the company called: A Product of Wonder Oil Products, Inc. You can contact them at: PO Box 5808, Napa, CA 94581 or
www.wonderoil.com I believe I got these treats directly from the company because they had their products at one of the many pet expos that I attended this year. My cat LOVES the emu meat. In the past he wasn't very thrilled with any of the pet jerky products that are out for cats. But I thought because this was from a healthy source, as emu meat and oil has many beneficial qualities, that I should see what my cat thinks of it. He loves it and I am now all out and will have to order off the website. The treat comes in large slabs of jerky, which you can easily break into smaller pieces for cats and small dogs. This is 100% Emu meat grown without drugs or hormones. So try it and let me know what you think!

Upcoming Events - October 2008

I want to tell you about some fun animal events coming up that you might want to go to. I will always update you with events in this area - for now those happening in the Bay Area, Calif. and then starting in February 2009, in the Portland area. I love events of any kind myself so I am always keeping my eye out for upcoming events that I might want to attend, by myself or with a friend or just to let people know about. So look for my posts with the same title to keep you up-to-date on things going on. Enjoy!

10/26/08 Pet Pride Day 12-3pm @ Sharon Meadows in San Francisco, GG Park. Will include products, vendors, contests, demos and more.

10/25/08 1-4pm Howloween Pet Party - Benefits the Humane Society of Sonoma County.
5345 Hwy 12 West, Santa Rosa $10 donation per dog requested. All proceeds benefit the humane society.
Join us for: dog costume contest, face painting, bobbing for hot dogs, prizes, pet photos, paws painting, pet psychic, wine tasting, K9 demos & much more! Dogs are welcome on leash only. For more info:
www.sonomahumane.org or (707) 542-0882


Clydstales in the snow

I love how beautiful the Budweiser Clydesdales are and I love the commercials especially during the holidays as well as college football games, etc. Here's a link to one if you haven't' yet seen it or love them like I do. Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6QPQIA4oEY

Advice/Tip: 7 ways to reduce your pet's carbon paw print

Copied from: Green Living Journal, Portland. * = comments I have added below.

Are you a pet lover & an earth lover? Many of you work hard to reduce your carbon footprint, but you often overlook the problem of your pet's 'carbon paw print'. Here are 7 tips you can take to help your pets be more environmentally friendly:

1. Clean up after your pet regularly
The accumulation of pet waste is not only a health hazard, gut it has a real environmental impact, especially if storm drains carry it into waterways. The EPA estimates that two or three days worth of droppings from a population of about 100 dogs would contribute enough bacteria to temporarily close a bay, and all watershed areas within 20 miles of it, to swimming and also fishing.

2. Use biodegradable bags to dispose of pet waste
Every pet owner should be using biodegradable waste bags. A recent study in San Francisco determined that pet waste makes up 3>8% of residential landfills. (WOW!) Much of this landfill problem is the result of pet waste that is disposed of in regular plastic bags. Using biodegradable bags allows the pet waste to go back to the earth as nature intended.

3. Recycle your pet waste
Consider using an in-ground pet waste septic system. These septic systems are a sanitary and environmentally friendly alternative for pet waste disposal.

4. For cat lovers, consider using kitty litter made from recycled or organic materials.
Traditional clay-based kitty litters contribute significantly to landfills and do not biodegrade. Greener choices are available, including recycled newspaper or flushable kitty litter made from organic materials, such as corn, wheat and wood.

*Clay based litters and also any clumping litters are also responsible for human and pet allergies and annoyances around your home. It is extremely unhealthy to breathe in the clouds of clay that are produced each time your cat is in the box scratching around and also when you go to scoop out the litter. I can't stay working with these litters and I will bring a sterile mask with me so that I'm not breathing in the harmful contents of what else is in the clay litter or other clumping litters. I highly recommend using the Trader Joe's brand kitty litter which is made with recycled wood products, which are shaped like little cylinders, which when peed on, they turn into dust. Then any of the remaining dust can be either thrown into the Yard Waste container OR you can use it in your garden or put it anywhere on the ground, as long as it's just dirt and/or vegetation. This is so convenient.

5. Purchase all-natural pet food products
Look for the many healthy and eco-friendly alternatives for pet foods. Select foods that do not contain rendered meat or animal byproducts, and avoid pet foods made from protein sources, that may contain growth hormones or antibiotics. As we are continuing to learn regarding animal food products, we have learned about the unhealthy effects of gluten grains, including wheat and corn - which is the 'filler' used in most generic and some "natural" pet foods. Research indicates that pets have a difficult time digesting these sticky substances, which can even block the absorbtion of important nutrients. Most pets, especially dogs, are raised on wheat and corn, the top 3 ingredients in most foods. There are now so many health problems associated with dogs - incluging joint problems, itchy skin and allerigies - which are usually a result of the diet, which is one of the things your vet will look at once he/she has ruled out other problems with tests. Most dog food doesnn't provide enough protein to keep them healthy. And most protein sources are very low quality!

*If you see the words (name of meat like chicken) + 'meal' as the first ingredient listed on the ingredients list, stay far away. Meat meal is not good for your pets and wouldn't you want your pets getting the real thing, instead of body parts, bones which shouldn't be in food in the first place and unfresh ingredients? I certainly don't. I know the list of natural foods is pretty daunting, but if you do your research, talk to your vet or someone else that is knowledgeable regarding your pet's health and if they have any allergies, or other problems, to be able to pick the best brand of food for your pet. I recommend the California Naturals brands, as well as Evo Innova and others like Tiki Cat canned food - my cat loves this food, as well as California's Naturals wet food options. You should try to stay as far away from processed foods for our pets. I know it's harder to do and may be more expensive, but you're going to get a happy pet, who is getting all of their required daily nutrients & vitamins and you may also see a major change in your pet, especially if he/she suffered from things like IBS, kidney stones, joint stiffness, etc. If you eat organic, so should your pet.

6. Use eco-friendly pet grooming products
Avoid products that contain phosphates, sulfates & other chemicals that can be harmful to the environment. Earthbath pet shampoos & bath wipes do not contain any chemicals. If you purchase pet shampoos or flea & tick control products, please read the label and select products that are made from natural earth-friendly ingredients. Some chemicals can be unhealthy for your pet and can leave a residual "toxic trail" wherever they go. If you send your pet to the groomer, ask the groomer if they have a choice of earth-friendly products.

7. Buy earth-friendly pet toys and other products
When you buy toys, pet beds or other products for your pet, look for items that are made from all-natural materials. Remember, you have a choice in the products and services you buy for your pet.

Saturday, October 18, 2008

Health Tip - Pumpkin for diarrhea or constipation

If your dog or cat is having the occasional case of constipation or
diarrhea, one of the things that might help is canned pumpkin. Yes
canned pumpkin in its pureed form (NOT pumpkin pie filling) is a
fantastic stool softener which makes it a good natural remedy for
constipation. It often helps with upset stomach or indigestion for
both cats and dogs. It is very rich in fibre and adding just one or
two teaspoonfuls to your pet's food often gets the system moving in
no time. Dogs will occasionally want to eat it directly and that's
fine too. Sometimes though, finicky cats and dogs won't touch it no
matter what you do.

On the opposite end of things is diarrhea. Since the dietary fibre in
canned pumpkin absorbs water, it can be a great help to a cat or dog
that has diarrhea. Some pet owners report that it firms up their
pet's loose stools or diarrhea within a few hours. Again one to two
teaspoonfuls is all that is needed.

Friday, October 17, 2008

Product Review: Kitty Hooch Catnip


I was just recently up in Portland, Oregon for 5 days/nights. I really enjoyed myself and had a lot of fun. People up there are really amazing and really proud of their city and they strive to make it a better place every single day. Portland is a home for thousands of animal lovers and the city has an amazing shelter - Oregon Humane Society: www.oregonhumane.org and other rescue organizations. The city is also home to many different practitioners and animal experts who want to offer the best to animal guardians all over the city - I was seriously impressed and I am very pleased with myself for finding a city that is perfect for both myself and my kitty. Kineivel is my rescue kitty, now 5 years old and really needs this move, almost as much as me.

So I went to the famous Saturday market the day before I flew back home. I was very impressed and got to talk to lots of different artists, mostly about how to eventually sell my own crafts and artwork at the market, which I will try to do come March 2009 after I move and get settled. There were a couple of pet-focused booths at the market, which was great to see. As I walked around, I found a gold mine of a product for all feline lovers!

The company is called: Kitty Hooch and they specialize in growing their own hand-processed 'White Lightning' catnip, catnip toys and they also customize cat furniture. For anyone going to or who live in Portland, OR, they are at every Saturday market, which goes from March to December. The owner of Kitty Hooch was very focused on making a product which they could garentee for their customers. The catnip that they sell is unlike any other catnip that you will find anywhere else, even at chain stores.

As the story goes, years ago the owners had bought various catnip filled toys for their cats and the response was lack of interest, making them assume that their cats didn't like catnip. Later they moved to Bald Peak and one day discovered a plant out in the field by their home that had been literally destroyed by their cats. With close inspection, they discovered that this plant was real catnip - the pure plant. They decided to grow the plants themselves and had to carefully protect them so that they would reach maturity otherwise their addicted cats would get a hold of the plants and chew them to pieces. When they finally matured, they filled old socks with catnip and their cats went crazy over them. They started giving the sock toys away to friends and friends were raving about how much their cats loved them! They decided to research the catnip that is sold in mainstream stores and the catnip that is also sold loose in a container. This catnip was different, dry and crunchy and had an odor of Oregano - the Catnip plant is in the mint family. The highest concentration of oils is in the flower of the plant, which is why you will find whole flowers in your product or toy, which you will never find in mainstream catnips. Also most mainstream catnip is machine processed and that is the main reason for it being loose and broken, instead of getting the whole plant - leaf, flower, seed, etc. Kitty Hooch is all 100% hand processed. The product is therefore a tad bit more expensive - the large mouse that I bought Kineivel was $8 and the container was $6 - but by processing everything by hand, this preserves the oils in the product which is what effects your cat. Because it is also stuffed whole into the toys, this allows for the catnip to stay fresh and every time your cat bites into the toy, the catnip automatically releases more of the oils. The process of farming this type of catnip is all 100% organic, so you're not giving your cat a toy or catnip that has been treated with pesticides and other harmful chemicals. They made the decision to provide cats with a premium catnip!

One difference is that you will NOT find this product at chain stores, you have to buy directly from the company itself. Their products are garenteed safe for cats, you won't find loose strings or buttons that fall off, all of which your cat might ingest and get sick from. Their toys are packed full with the premium catnip, garenteeing that the product last approximately a year and also the toy itself is made with a sturdy material, making it hard to tear apart, allowing for a longer lifespan of the toy which in turn saves you money! They do have a money-back garentee but hardly need to, as they only have a 0.2% return rate on their product! I'm never buying the other catnip every again!

You can read more customer reviews and read all about the company and their products on their website, as well as do some shopping for your kitty or find out where they will next be selling their products. The site is: http://kittyhooch.com

I highly recommend this product for all kitties, this stuff is liquid gold for cats! My cat carries his mouse around and I will find him rolling around on the floor, batting it in the air and even flying through the air himself after he has batted it into the air. It's very cute and I'm so happy to have found a product that really will last a long time. I'm considering investing in some of their other products around the time of my move, especially their fleecy cat blanket, in which you put a packet of the catnip into and it can serve as a safe place for your cat to sleep on while traveling. My kitty always gets the passenger seat in my car. Trust me, your cat will thank you!! >^..^<

Recommendation: Help your pets by brushing them out

I have a new recommendation for everyone and their pets, especially with our recent wishy-washy weather - cold, then hot (and too hot at that) and now finally cooling off again - thank goodness! My poor kitty has medium length hair and gets so hot and is just so much happier when it is cold. When we recently went up to Lake Tahoe over the weekend, I left the windows cracked a bit, since I like fresh air while I'm asleep. I woke up during the night and found Kineivel down by the backs of my knees, under the comforter cover. It was so sweet, he got cold and figured out that snuggling with me in bed would make him warm. This is something he doesn't normally do and just started to do when he was four and a half or so.

Anyway, right now it's Fall and the weather and temps are changing. Your pet's system is getting ready for winter and that means it needs to shed out it's summer coat in order to make room for his/her winter coat to grow in. You may be finding clumps of hair around your house. To help your pet out, I highly recommend brushing them once a day if possible and focus on the areas that are shedding the most fur at this time. Brushing also stimulates the hair folicules in your pet's skin and these respond by secreting oil which helps keep the fur/hair soft instead of dry.

Also remember, if your pet has sensitive skin, especially to dry weather (before we start getting rain), find a skin spray or cream that works for your pet and try to use it often. It is always better to try to prevent dry skin problems before the areas get worse in winter. You can also help skin problems by adding olive oil to your pet's meal. Fish oil works on skin too and you can buy pump top bottles called: Wild Alaskan Fish Oil with Omega 3 for cats & dogs at various stores, definitely Petco or Petsmart. You can see where it is sold in your area by visiting: www.wild-alaskan.com. Hope that helps!

Welcome!

Welcome to my new blog! I have tons of great ideas for what I want to do with this blog but just to begin, a few things:

-feel free to subscribe to this blog. The easiest way to do this is to sign up for a feed reader, such as Google or yahoo (you can find them on the main websites for each one) or if you have an address with either, you just need to set up your reader program. Then once it is setup, click on the link on the blog, usually on the bottom left titled: Posts (Atom). You may also subscribe to Comments if you want to. The blog will show up in your reader every time a new post is made. I love my reader program on Google and it's such a great way to stay up-to-date on anything that you are interested in.

-I welcome your comments and questions whether they pertain to a certain post or are just regarding animals in general. I will also do my best to answer them in the comments section, kind of like a running dialog for readers.

-if there is a particular issue or subject you want more information on, please email me and let me know your suggestion and I will do my very best to research your topic and post about it.

Thank you!